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120th & Maple, Omaha, NE

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Pruning Deciduous Trees

Deciduous Trees

Pruning is vital to tree health, yet it is probably the most neglected tree maintenance practice. Proper pruning improves form, encourages a central leader, prevents weak branch forks, and eliminates dead of broken branches. It is important to begin pruning while the tree is young, removing problems while they are small.

Preparation

Pruning tools should be in proper working order, clean and sharp. A pruning saw, lopping shears and small hand pruners are most commonly used. A sharp pocketknife is used to clean wounds on tree bark. A pole pruner may be necessary to reach higher branches on trees. These tools should be kept very sharp.

Pruning Young Trees

During the first two growing seasons, prune trees as little as possible. Remove only dead, broken, or rubbing branches. This allows trees to use all their leaves to establish and develop their root systems, and overcome planting stress without additional stress from pruning wounds. After this time period, pruning should be performed to maintain desired form.


Figure 1 Before Pruning	Figure 2 After Pruning

Prune any crossing or rubbing branches, weak forks, or multiple leaders (see Figures 1 and 2). There is little evidence to support the use of pruning paint in preventing decay or promoting rapid healing.

Correct Pruning Cut
Figure 3 Figure 4

Cutting Small Branches

Making a proper pruning cut is important to the health of the plant. See Figure 3 for the proper way to prune smaller branches. The cut should be high enough above the bud so as not to chance damaging the bud, but not so high as to leave a substantial amount of wood to rot on the end of the branch. Rotting wood can invite insects and disease. The cut should be at a slight angle so that water sheds away from the bud.

To cut a branch approximately 1 inch in diameter, reference Figure 4. By placing the by-pass pruner as close as is comfortable to the main branch that will remain, you are almost assured of a good pruning cut. The width of the pruning blades does not allow you to make a completely flush cut.

Figure 5

Cutting Larger Branches

When using a saw to cut a larger branch, you must be more careful. Referring to Figure 5, make cut "A" approximately 6 inches out from the main trunk beginning on the underside of the limb so that the portion of the branch remaining has had the pressure removed from it. Make cut "B" directly above cut "A" (See Figure 5.) Notice that the final cut "C" is not a flush cut. A shoulder ring allows the tree to recover quicker.

Topping

Topping is not a recommended pruning practice for any tree. The stubs that are left may soon decay and provide an entryway for insects and disease. Instead of leaving stubs, make all pruning cuts where branches fork, or back to the main trunk. Pruning on most trees should be done during the dormant season, preferably in late winter or early spring. The exceptions to this pruning rule are Silver Maple, birch and walnut that should be pruned while actively growing.

Mature trees require periodic pruning that is best left to a licensed arborist.

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